paint removal | Lead

Where can I find paint removal contractors in Savannah, GA?

Posted by admin on May 16th, 2010 and filed under paint removal | 2 Comments »

I’m trying to remove paint from a 3 story house with 100 year old clapboard over hang and Savannah Grey bricks.

try mineral spirit,but the paint contractors here will rip you off

Can anyone help me out with paint removal?

Posted by admin on May 13th, 2010 and filed under paint removal | 4 Comments »

I have lovely old wooden baseboards and window frames in my new apartment but they are covered in this awful Christmas green paint. Ideally I would like to remove all the paint and stain the wood, but I have no idea how many layers/colours are underneath the green. Any suggestions? Is it better to choose a better colour and paint over it, or remove what is there? What tools would I need for the chosen course of action?

I prefer to use a heat gun when stripping paint (home depot and other hardware stores sell them). A blow torch sounds dangerous and paint removers can become very messy. You’ll find that with a heat gun the paint will bubble up and then you can scrap it away in big slices. For the scrapping part a good paint scrapper will work. Be careful of using the heat gun next to a window or mirror as they may be damaged. For those areas you’ll probably need to use the chemicals. Make sure the room is well ventilated and where a mask and rubber gloves. If this is an old place there could be lead paint under layers of latex paint. After you strip the wood you’ll need to sand the wood. If you intend to stain the wood, as opposed to painting it, you need to remove every speck of old paint or it will show through the stain. In other words, the lightest smear of paint on the wood will result in the staining job looking horrible (I speak from experience on this). I would start with a rough texture sandpaper and then use a smoother sandpaper to finish.

How long is a normal lead paint removal?

Posted by admin on May 11th, 2010 and filed under paint removal | 1 Comment »

I’m closing on a housing the 23 and the lead paint inspection was positive how long will we have to wait to move in.

Until your house’s lead paint inspection is negative. Test it again and see if it is safe to move in.

what is a good heavy paint removal/stripping product for wood doors?

Posted by admin on May 8th, 2010 and filed under paint removal | 4 Comments »

wood material – trying to refinish my front door (one side only) but cannot find a stripping or paint removal product that is working. The paint or stain that is on there now is very heavy and have tried sanding but it is starting to flatten door is some areas and the stain or paint that is currently on there is not coming off or lightening up any. Please help! – Trying to do this on own and it is starting to become costly. Would appreciate any advice on products that would help me.

"ZIP STRIP", you can’t do it in one shot, it takes several applications of the product, put it on quickly with an old brush, and in a few seconds you will see everything start to bubble off, put newspaper on the floor, or better yet, use it outside, as fumes may be strong, and it will be very messy with gobs of paint and stripper coming off, a cardboard box works well as a recepticle to throw away the melting paint/varnish, you will need gloves too as it may be irratating if it comes in contact with the skin.. Use a 2" scraper to peel off the bubbled up varnish/paint when it starts to bubble up after application. After 2 or three times you’ll be down to the bare wood, then you can start sanding. It works pretty quickly, have lots of rags handy. then stain the wood, and apply polyurathane "Exterior type", use a good stain and poly such as "ZAR", a bit pricey but, it won’t skid, it makes a great finish, and saves work,it is "MARINE" GRADE rated. Be careful, wood finishing can become relaxing and addicting. If you choose the mechanical method of stripping the wood (SAND PAPER, scraping, etc.) you’ll be there for weeks.